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My uncle Keoki lives on the Big Island of Hawaii. He has been surfing all his life. Last time Ryan and I visited him, he picked us up from the airport, and on our way to Kohala nearly got into a head on as he was checking the surf at Mahaiula Bay. (Located close to the Kona airport and is now a state park.)
Can you blame him? This place holds a very dear spot in my heart and I'm getting antsy to go back and visit the family soon...
Check it out - his little dog Maka surfs too! What a stud. No life vest either.
Here's a shot of the Bay - where my grandfather's ashes are scattered and hopefully mine too someday. It is magical.
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